Very Basic Tips On Becoming a Muralist

1.If you're an artist wanting to become a professional muralist, practice in your own home first.  It's the perfect 'lab' for any beginner.Get an honest opinion about your work from a qualified artist or decorator.  Family members are biased. 

2. Learn to accept criticism with grace and not anger.  If you plan on working with clients, accepting criticism will be part of the job - you'll be asked to make changes to your painting to please someone else.  Swallow pride and remember, they are the ones who will be living with the mural, not you.That's not to say you can't offer advice to a client who doesn't know much about art, just do it tactfully.

3. Let's say you've been hired to paint a mural.  You're excited.  Now what? Find out where the mural will be (Baby's room, Dentist's office, etc.) Come armed with a typed list of ideas in case the client isn't sure what they want.  Bring samples from your typed list you've painted on canvas paper, Put these in plastic page protectors and then in a nice binder with your studio name on the front.   This helps get the ball rolling. Bring pencil, notebook measuring tape, and plan on carefully mapping out the room.  Include EVERYTHING you see - light fixtures, anything connected to the wall, columns that might interrupt an image, light switches, etc.  You might have to make quick sketches standing next to the client so they can get an idea of where you're going.  Bring a color sample book from your favorite paint store.  Usually clients already have color schemes they are using so keep this in mind when you go to pick out that sky color or leaf green.  Your nice blue green forest mural can suddenly clash with their  sage green color palette.

4. Prepare your final pictures by drawing the exact configuration of the room onto canvas paper (scaled down) and include all the light switches, door openings, windows, and any odd wall structure that might fall in your mural path.  Paint in the mural as it will exist, tweaking as you go to make sure no main item falls into a corner area.

5. Meet with your client once more to get approval of the plan and price.  I usually present at least 2-3 painted options for price range purposes.  It gives them a visual idea of what they'll get for the money. Remember to figure out your square footage, cost of paint, any extra items like scaffolding, wall repair, wallpaper removal, gas/mileage, hotel, etc.  Clients, I've found, will pay more for an artist who can paint quickly but still deliver a perfect painting -so practice speed and accuracy !  If you plan on working with Interior Designers, they always want things done 'last week' so keep that in mind if you tend to work slowly.

6. Getting ready to start.  If your mural involves faux columns, repeated patterns, anything requiring symmetry, MAKE A FULL SIZE TEMPLATE!  This will avoid a lot of frustrating drawing on site. Cut out a stencil for repeat patterns and columns.  For faux windows with an arc top, create a paper stencil - tie a string to a pencil, find the middle of your paper window, put your finger on the loose end of the string in the center of the window, and with the other hand,position the pencil where you need the arc, keeping the sting taut,draw the arc where you need it.  

7. Never use pen or pencil to draw your outline onto the wall.  Use VINE CHARCOAL as this will not 'bleed' through later on. (Or use a watered down latex paint to "draw"on the wall.)  Once you've drawn the  outline onto the wall, use a dry rag to wipe the excess charcoal off the wall.You'll be left with a faint outline that won't show up if you had to make a lot of changes while drawing.  For areas where you need to see a strong outline, use the thinned paint.

8. Keep a list on your studio wall of the items you need to take to every work site.  Keep all your tools clean, neat, and very organized!  Here is a short list to start you off: Drop cloth, a large variety of brushes, rinse water for latex, turpentine/mineral spirits for oil/alkyd based paints, (keep both of these in plastic or glass containers with tight lids and put them inside of yet another basin in case of spillage.) painter tape, large + small rulers, large + small levels, vine charcoal, ladder, large shallow basin to keep everything in (and protect a client's floor), all your study work/photos/sketches/stencils, pre-mixed paint, paint mixing tray or palette, snacks, drinks, painter's smock, safety glasses for ceiling murals, mask, latex gloves, scissors, masking tape, trash bucket (to carefully dispose of any paint laden cloth)and anything you think you might need.Remember, cloth that has been covered in turpentine or linseed oil can spontaneously com bust if left in a hot or sunny area so watch where you leave your rags. I was helping another artist with an outdoor project and saw this first hand.

9. Murals tend to take longer than we think so plan with that in mind.  FIRST: carefully draw on the wall and tape or protect areas not to be painted (like the carpet or Aunt Mary's best chair!).  The drawing will usually take longer than the painting because it's the skeleton - get that part right and the rest goes quickly.  For small rooms make sure the items in your design are scaled down to match.  Big fat columns in a small room won't look good just like skinny columns in a huge room will be dwarfed.  SECOND: paint the sky first, darkest areas next. To make items in your mural 'pop' have high contrast in value.  I usually paint almost black/green for the background of a garden and then add the medium value on top, and then the highlights.  THIRD: add the medium value and highlights.  Finish all the details, photograph the work, and clean up everything.   

HAPPY PAINTING OUT THERE AND IF YOU NEED MORE HELP LET ME KNOW.